Andiamo a Tuscania

After six days of roaming Rome, finally it became time to head to my next destination, Tuscania. I did not know much about this place when I signed up for it besides that it would provide a very different and more authentic Italian experience than that of Florence. First things first, I should mention that Tuscania is not Tuscany. Tuscany (or "Toscana" in Italian) is a region in Italy whose capital is Florence. Tuscania is located in the nearby region of Lazio and is a town in the province of Viterbo. Got all that? A little confusing but in short, the pastries are still good, the people are even friendlier, and about 80% of the men are named Massimo.

Thursday afternoon we were picked up from our hotel in Rome and driven to our new apartment in Tuscania! I am lucky to live in the town's historical center which is filled with beautiful cobblestone streets, medieval architecture, and picturesque alleyways. The city center was recognized as a World Heritage Site by the United Nations and dates back to the 8th century BC where it was a powerful military stronghold on a major road that joined Rome and Tuscany. Over time it saw great wealth and success through farming and trade, as reflected today by its rich agricultural heritage visible all around town. Tuscania is characterized by its sloping countryside, rich volcanic soil, thermal springs, diverse wildlife, and ancient ruins. More importantly, its region is home to trees used by the Ferrero company to make Nutella!

Life as a Local

With a population of only 8,000 Tuscania has such a small town feel and everyone knows each other, so us Americans roaming around surely stand out! Despite the staring, they are all very friendly and are curious to know where we come from and what we are doing here. The only catch - they rarely speak English, so in just a few days I've really started to use my minimal Italian skills! Our advisor at school has taken us to all the local joints and introduced us to the restaurant owners so it's been fun to visit them and enjoy their extremely generous student discounts. One bar/gelateria in particular was celebrating its 50th anniversary this weekend with a live band and all kinds of festivities. It was such a blast, we even made it down to the local park for some swing dancing with the older local crowd. They sure know how to dance! It was such a different atmosphere than what we are used to but it was so much fun just walking around and getting to know the people of Tuscania. They even invited us back next weekend for more!

The entrance to our new apartment!

Our arrival also coincided with the town's annual "Festa della Lavanda" (lavender festival) in which the town is filled with local merchants selling all kinds of products and foods, as well as performances by local bands. There was also a circus/acting troupe parading through the historical center performing for bystanders. Though I had only a slight idea of what they were saying, it was neat to see how they interpret things like clowns and magicians over here. On my way to the festival I was accosted in an alley by two young girls, probably around 6 years old, who saw me and immediately yelled, "COME TI CHIAMI?!" I told them my name and asked them in return, as clearly I was a new face for them around town. I spoke with them in Italian for about five minutes or so and they told me all about where they live and how lame I was for missing out on the festival. The limits of my Italian language skills are pretty much what you would converse with children about, so I enjoyed this quite a bit!

Buon Appetito 

My class, The Food of Italy, started on Monday. After touring our kitchen-classroom on the first day I couldn't wait to get in there and see what was in store for us for these next four weeks. My teacher is a local baker whose family has owned a bakery for over 70 years! After my pastry parade in Rome (well, I suppose it started in Florence) I can't wait to learn all about his cooking. He started with a brief lesson on food in Italy, describing the general regional differences in pastas, meat, fats, etc. Not long into his talk he stopped to ask if we were hungry (note: when a chef asks you that, you always say yes) and if we would like him to make us some lunch. After twisting our arm a bit we agreed and before long he had water boiling, tomatoes roasting in the oven, and eggplant grilling on the stove. In no time he whipped up our dish of fresh pasta with a deliciously seasoned mix of vegetables and flavoring. He grabbed a bottle of wine from the fridge and poured us each a glass, then toasted to our first day! I've started a "cookbook" document with all the recipes we're making, so hopefully I'll be able to replicate them to some degree back home. I'm excited to see what else we will make!

I can't believe I'm in the home stretch now with just over 3 weeks remaining. I'll save my sentimental remarks for the end but for now I'm enjoying all the new things Tuscania is bringing to my experience. We're off to the nearby Bolsena Lake and town of Viterbo this weekend to see their annual medieval festival "Ludika" which should present more photo opportunities!

Arrivederci!

Megan

The Dog Days are (Half) Over

Well Florence, after just five weeks my stay here has run out. I can't believe how quickly the time has passed, as it still feels like I was tortuously packing my suitcase a week ago! I couldn't have asked for a better group of roommates and friends here, as they were always up for anything and made my trip so much fun! Sadly they are all heading back to the States but I'm excited to get to know a new group in Tuscania. Ever since we hit the one week remaining mark we've been knocking one thing after another off our Florence bucket list. After our busy weekend of day trips, we were excited to have Monday off from class to celebrate a holiday in Florence! On June 24th Florence celebrates their patron saint, San Giovanni ("St. John the Baptist"). The day begins with a parade in colorful Renaissance costumes through town in which candles are delivered to the Baptistry to pay tribute to St. John. Included in procession are these flag bearers, who broke out into various routines as they walked. Some participants were clearly more thrilled than others:

In the early evening all the Florentines gather for what was possibly the one thing I was looking forward to most here - the Calcio Storico ("historical soccer"). Within Florence there are four districts - Santo Spirito, San Giovanni, Santa Croce, and Santa Maria Novella - each of which is represented by a color and a team. Every June these teams face off first in the semi-finals, then the final contest on St. John's Day in the Piazza Santa Croce, which is converted into a stadium with a sand pit and two very small goals. It was insane to see all the spirit the locals have for their districts, chanting back and forth at the other section; our luck landed us on the blue side of the home team, Santa Croce! Think Boston fans times 10 - in fact, my friend and I wondered how an event like this would fly in Beantown. I know my brothers would be in attendance, that's for sure!

After nearly 90 minutes of ceremonial procession into the arena, the stormy clouds above started to wreak havoc. We hadn't seen rain like this in all of our time in Florence; after just 5 minutes, it was absolutely pouring! Thunder and lightning were looming in the distance, adding to the atmosphere of this storied event. The players had already taken their places on the field, each with hands wrapped like boxers, starting their Mike Tyson warm-ups. A small scuffle broke out before the ball was even in play. Just as the officials (a mere formality) were about to release the ball in play, the two captains approached the side table. Within minutes the announcer echoed something in Italian with great remorse through the loudspeaker. The gentleman behind us, whose 8 year old girl was huddled with us under my umbrella, looked at us with sadness and said, "NO GAME!". The crowd reacted appropriately with the Italian equivalents of booing and cursing. The game, for the first time in 37 years, had been postponed to next Sunday. We didn't spend much time dwelling on the fact, instead fleeing the smoke-filled downpour to begin the 15 minute walk back to our apartment. Few times have we been this physically miserable, but I have to admit the sports fanatic in me loved feeling the passion and spirit of the Florentines. While I was very disappointed we didn't get to see this brawl in its entirety, we did get a refund the next day, so not all was lost!

Photo Finish

Thursday was our last day of classes, marking the end to my photography career in Florence. I've learned so much in such a short amount of time about my camera, how to frame pictures, how to edit, and how to present them in a cohesive series. I'm so happy I chose to take this class, as I spent most afternoons doing "homework" assignments like taking pictures of life around Florence. Our last major assignment was to present a collection of our choice and be able to explain why we chose to photograph what we did. We also were going to print our collection with our lab's fancy inkjet printer, so keeping this in mind I chose to use pictures from one of my favorite nights here - the sunset on the Arno River from the Florence Boat Club. I particularly like the river as it reminds me a lot of the Charles back in Cambridge, juxtaposed next to a city and so peaceful to sit by all hours of the day. Here are a few of the pictures from my collection, as I've already posted some of the others here.

Goodbye Gelato & Farewell Florence

For our last night in Florence my friends and I celebrated the only way we (and most of Italy) knew how - food. Thanks to a recommendation we went to this small, rustic restaurant near the river. Per the waiter's advice, I ordered gnocchi alla sorrentina, gnocchi with mozzarella, tomato sauce, and basil. It was easily one of the best meals I had in all of my time here, though as my mom pointed out, there really isn't such thing as a bad meal in Italy! 

The plan for dessert was one we had been scheming for a while. After weeks of careful and consistent research, we had all chosen our favorite gelato places and divided accordingly to grab our final dessert in Florence. A minimum of four flavors was required of everyone, since it is often so difficult to narrow it down to just two when ordering. On our last night, why choose just two? My gelato of choice came from a chance find across the river, one bridge down from the popular tourist hub of the Ponte Vecchio. While it was hard to choose my favorite spot, I had to go with the Santa Trinita Gelateria, as their flavor by the same name was just so delicious, a creamy vanilla base with caramel and fudge swirls. I tossed in a scoop of the classic stracciatella (chocolate chip), which I've learned goes nicely with menta (mint) to make your own mint chocolate chip. And of course I needed my all-time favorite ice cream flavor, caffé (coffee) in the mix as well. If there's anything I've learned thus far in Italy, it's how to find good gelato! While again there is no such thing as "bad" gelato, the best comes from places whose case is NOT shoved in a narrow window, whose gelato is not mounded from the night before, and whose line extends somewhere near the door. The rules are simple, but if obeyed, you're in for a treat!

We all met up from our respective gelaterie to enjoy them one last time on the Ponte Vecchio after sunset. A two-man band played a mix of American and Italian songs while a boat tour passed below. The Florence Boat Club was hosting an outdoor, Gatsby-esque party with fancy tents and cocktails. It was truly a perfect night and a fitting end to our five weeks in Florence. Just like I fell in love with Boston not too long ago, I have to say that Florence really has grown on me. It will always be a special place for me, as it was the first city I had ever been to in Europe and the first place I've ever lived abroad. I'm going to miss the nights on the Duomo steps, weekly visits to the fruit vendors in the Central Market, aggressively early trips to Gusta Pizza for dinner, and most of all, the incredible views of the city from the top of the Duomo and Piazzale Michelangelo. I can't wait to return some day with friends or family and show them my favorite spots!

When in Roam

There was about one week between the end of my Florence program and the start of my next program in Tuscania, and since I had to vacate my Florence apartment, I headed down to Rome a few days before the rest of group 2 arrived. My friend Steph has been working in Milan this summer, so fortunately she was able to come down for a couple nights to explore the city with me! We stayed at the orientation hotel in the neighborhood of Trastevere, located across the river away from the main historic sights. I didn't get a chance to come over here during my prior excursion to Rome, so we were excited to live in this part of the city mostly inhabited by locals. 

After surviving the madness that was the Roma Termini train station, we checked in to the hotel and set out for a quality dinner. After a month in Italy we've devised a set of rules for choosing a good restaurant. Rule #1: The restaurant may not solicit you to eat there once they catch you reading their menu. The good places don't need their hostesses offering to pay you (but actually) to eat there, or assisting you in finding the part of the menu in English. Rule #2: The menu should not (or very minimally) use English. Rigatoni and lasagna are pretty universal and no English means these places are popular among locals, another good sign. Rule #3: On no part of the menu should you see the word "hamburger" or an Italian variation thereof. They don't exist here, and for good reason. Rule #4: Restaurants on small, secluded side streets are often the best. The ones on the main tourist drag prey on confused Americans lured by the words "tourist menu." The little family run places beneath the hanging laundry warrant attention. Bonus points if you witness the mother in an apron and hairnet carrying a wheel of cheese up from their apartment across the street (also a true story).

Steph and I went 3-3 on the meals, having a taste of the Roman specialties like rigatoni al gricia and spaghetti all'amatriciana, a traditional Roman sauce made with bacon and tomatoes. After walking nearly the entire circumference of Rome during the day, these meals were just what we needed. Since Steph is returning to Rome with her family at the end of the summer, we avoided the usual tourist spots, instead spending our days climbing the hills of Rome for some panoramic views. We also stumbled upon a few hilltop churches in the residential area of Rome, giving us a peek at some beautiful Italian brides!

Pinocchio was written by Carlo Collodi, a native of Florence, so we see a lot of figurines for sale! This shop you could see them being carved right in the window.

Steph returned to Milan Sunday afternoon, leaving me with about two days to entertain myself in Rome until my next session arrived. Since I now feel like a Roman local taking public transportation and dining in all the local spots, I didn't feel too obligated to visit all the typical tourist landmarks again. Instead I used the time to relax, work out on a European treadmill, and of course, eat. I spent Monday lounging in the Botanical Gardens by the Japanese waterfall pond overlooking Rome. It was such a peaceful day and a great change of pace from everything! I also used the day as an opportunity to revisit a bakery we had found the day before whose aragostine ("lobster tails") filled with Nutella were impossible to ignore (or get only one of). These Italians sure know how to do carbs. For dinner I treated myself to a traditional Italian meal of an antipasto, primo piatto, secondo piatto, and dolce. Though it sounds like a lot, it is all portioned differently than the states, so it was just enough! I went with the Italian staples of bruschetta, lasagna, pollo arrosto, and finally tiramisu. Aside from the awkwardness of eating alone at a restaurant, I discovered that finishing a liter of acqua naturale by yourself is somewhat like the cinnamon challenge. Nonetheless my meal was delicious and a perfect end to my little Roman vacation!

It won't be long now before I'm back in the States, but until then I am looking forward to the many more adventures that await me in Tuscania. A town of only 8,000, this will be a very different experience than Florence and will surely immerse me in even more Italian culture. We've got trips to Viterbo, Mt. Vesuvius, Pompeii, Capri and Sorrento coming our way, and now that I've figured out how to use this camera I'll be sure to document accordingly! As Bon Jovi once said, "woah, we're half way there." Italy part two, let's do it!

Arrivederci!

Megan

Day Trips & Climbing Cliffs

With just under a week to go here in Florence, we packed as much as possible into our last free weekend. It's hard to believe how quickly these five weeks have gone by but thankfully we prioritized, saving the best for last. The first of our "final countdown" days came with a familiar mantra: pizza, gelato, Duomo. Thanks to some reputable guide books and the recommendation of our program directors, we ventured across the Ponte Vecchio to the best pizza place in Florence, Gusta Pizza. Getting there twenty minutes before opening time (7pm) and standing at the correct entrance guarantees you first place in line (nearly 30 deep by 7:00!) and a seat inside this small hole in the wall establishment. Their 5 euro Margherita pizza is simply amazing, with the fresh mozzarella melted atop perfectly seasoned sauce. I hate to go against my Dover roots on this one, but I think this may be the best pizza I've ever had! 

No Italian dinner is complete without gelato, so we stopped on our way back at another great find, a sure frontrunner in my unofficial Florence gelato contest. The combined nutritional value of the pizza and gelato served as great fuel for our next stop, the Duomo. Construction of this gothic style cathedral began in 1296 and was completed in 1436, though it still maintains beautiful color and clarity. Some of the best views of Florence come from atop the Duomo, so we couldn't wait to climb the 450 steps and explore the city we've called home from a new vantage point. At this point we were accustomed to the spiral, Alice in Wonderland-like staircases and shifted stones, so in no time we reached the top! The sun was starting its descent which made for some beautiful pictures:

Unfortunately we couldn't stay up there too long, but it was great to check that off our Florence bucket list! Since we've been living here for weeks now it often takes things like the birds eye view of the city to remind us just how beautiful it is. Or, like in this picture from another night last week, when you stumble upon the sun setting over the river. Doesn't get much better!

Let's Go to the Beach

Though we've transitioned quite nicely into urban life here, since it turned consistently 80+ degrees outside we've been anxious to get our first real taste of summer from the Italian coast. Friday we made it happen, boarding our first solo train to the costal town of Viareggio. We hopped off the train and trusted the Italian youth for the first and probably last time, following those in bathing suits just about a half a mile to the beach! The weather was perfect, the beach was fairly empty, and we only saw a couple middle-aged men in Speedos. Not a bad day!

We had such a wonderful time at the beach, as it was our first real relaxing excursion. I also loved it because the sand reminded me of one of my second homes, the Jersey Shore, which has my name on it come August!

Bolognese in Bologna

Saturday I was back at the train station again, this time heading to meet my friend Andrea in Bologna! The convenient meeting place was a city we had heard much about, particularly with respect to food. But first, since we kind of have a thing for old universities, we ventured on over to the campus of the world's oldest, the University of Bologna. Founded in 1088, it marks the origin of the word "university" and is still in operation today. The campus was quiet yet charming, filled with porticos and other medieval looking plazas. The much-anticipated lunch came from a small restaurant chosen somewhat at random on one of the busier streets in the city. Without hesitation we both ordered tagliatelle con ragú alla bolognese, as Bologna is the birthplace of the meat sauce "bolognese." As expected it was delicious, catapulting itself to one of the best Italian meals I've had thus far!

Feeling the effect of our mid-day carboload, we began our venture to the Basilica Madonna di San Luca, home to a prized icon of the Virgin Mary, allegedly painted by Saint Luke the apostle himself. Thanks to Andrea's Italian proficiency, we asked for directions to the bus stop and found our way outside the city center to the basilica's base. Per usual, access to this basilica and the best view of Bologna doesn't come easy. The basilica demands a roughly two mile hike uphill through the world's longest portico of 666 arches. Thankfully the arches gave us some shade, but we sure felt the burn by the time we reached the summit! The view was once again spectacular, making all that effort so worth it!

We returned to the city center without issue and after a celebratory gelato run headed to our respective train tracks. It was great to see a friend from home for the first time since I've been here. We had a blast and were so glad we got to see each other and a new city in Italy!

Cinque Terre Trekking

Bright and early Sunday morning we met with a travel company here in Florence for my last day trip of the weekend, this time to the beautiful coastal paradise of Cinque Terre. Translating to "five lands", Cinque Terre is composed of five villages each with distinct character: Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare. The natural scenery and hillside houses pinned between the sea and mountains offer some of the most spectacular sights in all of Italy. Due to their location, however, these houses are at the mercy of natural disasters such as land slides and flooding, evidence of which exists in spots across the region. In addition to the beachfront, Cinque Terre is known for its hiking trails connecting the small cities. Our knowledgeable tour guides took us from town to town to maximize our time there, leaving the most time in Manarola, Vernazza and Monterosso. The first stop in Manarola gave us our first look at the incredible cliffs and accompanying houses. We got to climb out on rocks for some more photo ops!

Vernazza came next, bringing with it more views of coastal beauty. They are famous for their focaccia bread, so we couldn't pass up a stop at the local baker! We ate fast since we only had about a half an hour here before the highlight of the trip, the hike from Vernazza to Monterosso. This is the most challenging of all the hiking trails at a length of just over 2 miles and about 800 vertical feet with an average completion time of about 90 minutes (which we obviously took as a personal challenge to beat). The first part was the most challenging, but as soon as we got our first view of Vernazza we knew this would be well worth it. With each bend and set of stairs we were greeted with an even more impressive seascape and couldn't help taking lots of pictures! By now the temperature had warmed up and the added weights of our backpacks made for a pretty hot trek, but overall I'll never forget what an amazing experience it was!

At the highest point on the hike we could begin to see our destination, Monterosso, giving us even more motivation to get there and get into our bathing suits! After stopping for a celebratory picture of the hike's completion, we hustled down to the beach to cool off in the crystal blue waters. Even the crowds of tourists and streams of vendors couldn't take away from our beach experience! Like always, we could have spent hours there but sadly had to grab some lunch and head back to the buses.

After a busy weekend it felt great to return to Florence at the end of the day. With only four days left here before I move to Tuscania I'm trying to soak in every last bit of culture and a little bit more of my favorite gelato. More to come soon on my last week in Florence, including a rainy St. John's Day and our final feasts!

Arrivederci!

Megan