Until We Eat Again

After ten long weeks in Italy, at last day 70 of 70 has arrived. In our last week we've enjoyed some time by the local pool along with a few trips to nearby farms to learn about the production of olive oil and other local products. On Saturday we went back to Viterbo to meet up with our intelligent, spontaneous and so very Italian director (here's your shout out, Matteo!) and his friend for dinner and a trip to the local "thermal baths". These natural springs are found across the Viterbo region and date back to the time of the Popes who used the mineral qualities of the water as a therapeutic treatment. The baths are in the middle of a field, encased in natural rock formation with about three levels worth of water pooling into a natural hot tub. There were plenty of locals enjoying the evening there; we could only stand to dip our feet in as the water was very hot! The smell of the minerals in the water and the rocks filled the air as we sat looking up at the stars on this clear and calm night. I was glad to check out those before we left!

Week 10 of 10: A Sinking Ship

On another 90+ degree Sunday we took our last informal excursion to Isola del Giglio located on the western coast of Italy near Tuscany in the Tyrrhenian Sea. We arrived at the stunning seaside town of Porto Santo Stefano and boarded a 45-minute ferry to the picturesque Isola del Giglio. These towns reminded me of Sorrento and Capri from last weekend but I would argue are even better! There were hardly any crowds and the water was even bluer and clearer than before. We weren't the first to discover the beauty of this island though, as the nearby port of Civitavecchia is a popular cruise ship destination. In fact, you may have heard of Giglio Island on the news, as it is the home of the Costa Concordia cruise ship that ran aground on January 13, 2012. The ferry ride from Porto Santo Stefano took us directly past the wreckage, distracting all the tourists from the gorgeous seaside town to this rusty, half-exposed ship. It is really not too far from shore which makes the whole disaster even more tragic. The bottom of the ship is completely rusted and anchored construction machinery circumnavigates the vessel. 

We spent nearly all our time on the island on the beach giving my roommate, who has also been here for 10 weeks, and me a nice break from the overload of museums and architecture. We certainly appreciate all the amazing places we've seen but with water this blue and the sun shining we couldn't pass up a relaxing day in the sand!

The Food of Italy: A Complete Summer Cookbook

When it came time to decide where to study abroad I'll admit that a big factor in my decision was the food. As my friends will attest to my love of the North End, I didn't have to turn far to find a place where culture and food were united as one. For those of you who have inquired about the quality of the food in Italy, rather than throw more synonyms for "incredible" at you, I instead offer the following collection of photos of the products made in my class, The Food of Italy.

Penne pasta with roasted cherry tomatoes and eggplant

Couscous con brunoise di verdure e cipolla di tropea croccante
Couscous with cubed vegetables and crispy onion

Quiche con scamorza, uova e pepperoni arrosto

Quiche with scamorza cheese, eggs and roasted peppers

Ravioli con pesto e ricotta 

Ravioli with pesto and ricotta

Spaghetti alla chitarra con pomodorini, melanzane e ricotta

Spaghetti with cherry tomatoes, eggplant and ricotta cheese 

Fried calamari & shrimp tempora 

Pesce spada alla mediterranea

Grilled Mediterranean swordfish 

Fried chicken strips breaded in corn flakes with roasted peppers

Spaghetti con ragú 

Spaghetti with meat sauce

Ravioli ricotta spinaci con salsa di pomodoro

Ravioli filled with spinach and ricotta cheese with tomato sauce 

Fettuccine con ragú di vegetaria

Fettuccine with vegetable ragú sauce

Pizza - Margherita, Potatoes, Oil, Mushrooms

Crostata con Nutella

Crostata con marmellata di more

Crostata with blackberry jam

Coconut Cookies

Fried eggplant, bread, meatballs & pecorino cheese

Gnocchi alla Sorrentina

Gnocchi (small potato pasta) with tomato sauce, mozzarella and basil

Gnocchi all'Amatriciana

Gnocchi with sauce made of pork, pecorino cheese and tomato

Gazpacho Andaluso

Cold vegetable soup originating from Spain

Bruschetta con uovo a occhio di bue

Toasted bread with fried egg and ham

 Frittata con salsiccia, mozzarella e cipolla

Scrambled eggs with sausage, mozzarella and onions

Insalata di uova sode

Tuna salad with green beans and boiled eggs

Insalata di pollo con melanzane grillante

Chicken salad with grilled eggplant

Insalata Caprese

Insalata di linguine con pesto, patate e pinoli

Linguine salad with pesto sauce, potatoes and pine nuts

Canata

Bread, artichokes, black olives, cherry tomatoes and olive oil

Supplí

Fried rice and tomato sauce balls

Ravioli with rabbit and wild herb sauce 

 Ravioli with rabbit and rabbit stock sauce

"Gio," the best chef in all of Italy! Thanks for everything!

Grazie e Arrivederci

With our remaining time struggling to stay afloat, I've reflected on my past 10 weeks in one of the most beautiful countries in the world. In such a short amount of time I've exhausted nearly every chapter of my guidebook, assembled a stack of postcards thicker than my Dad's Thanksgiving slices of butter, and most importantly assimilated into a culture that once seemed foreign. Though you wouldn't expect it from my last string of posts, for once I am at a loss for words on how I could possibly summarize all I have seen and done in the past two months or recognize all of the people who made this experience possible. With this writer's block in mind, instead I offer the following list of the top 10 things I have learned while in Italy:

1. There is no such thing as bad (or too much) gelato.
2. Acceptable reasons for a store to be closed in Italy: it's Monday; it's Tuesday; it's raining; it's hot; I need coffee; it's July; it's Wednesday; I'm taking a nap; it's 2pm; I forgot.
3. Towels can easily be converted to stiff tablecloths simply by washing them.
4. Lizards are harmless, even if they inhabit in your kitchen.
5. Fourth of July Snapchats 6 hours in delay can still ignite extreme patriotism.
6. Getting lost is actually just "taking the scenic route."
7. While a single language is not universal, a smile is.
8. The dinner table is a place where strangers become friends, families grow closer, and life pauses for the sake of living.
9. Whether a simple path or an endless set of stairs, it's worth the climb.
10. Albeit a little scary, trying new things isn't so bad (except if that new thing is freshly gutted squid).

While I've inundated social media with stories of my travels, pictures, and the elusive wifi restaurant check-ins, I have to stop to thank all of those who made this trip possible and who have made this one of the best times of my life. Foremost, to my parents Peter & Jeanne, I thank you for the unconditional support and love you have given me and my siblings. They also deserve recognition for being the unwilling subjects of various links over the course of my blog, summing to a perception by readers as intrigued, bakery-enthused tourists. While I cannot deny any of those things, I can attest they are so much more, and for that I offer an overwhelming thank you. I can't wait to get back here some day and let you see this all for yourself; from the Sistine Chapel to Salvatore's unbeatable lasagna down the block, we'll be sure to hit all the spots. 

To my aunts Trish and Mary, I thank you once again for all your love and support, both in reality and via Facebook likes. I know I can speak on behalf of my siblings and I when I say we can't imagine a growing up without your involvement in our lives! For one, I know I would not have been in Italy or Florence without your knowledgable input! I hope you enjoy the souvenirs I bought for you, but rest assured I'm already anticipating sharing my wealth of cooking knowledge with you over next Christmas' round of Cranium. Start practicing that "Leaning Tower of Pisa" charade routine!

To all my friends who have curbed my homesickness through "Live Free or Die" snapchats or international Skype sessions, thank you and I've missed you! My fellow Harvard Italian travelers, Andrea and Steph, thanks for going out of your way for some of my most memorable days here! I sincerely hope we take our same side-street restaurant and adventurous approach to Boston these next two years and get out of that Harvard bubble. You guys are the best! I also thank my hilarious and fun Florence & Tuscania roommates who have truly made this experience for me. Your adventurous spirit and drastically improved picture taking skills have greatly contributed to my blog and so-called Italian adventure! And finally, to the 18 people in Russia who have consistently read my blog each week, спасибо! I am truly flattered. 

In Italian, "arrivederci" means "until we see each other again." So to you, Italy, I offer one final, bittersweet arrivederci until I return to your wonderful cities. From the beauty of the Florence renaissance to the friendly faces I've come to know around Tuscania I will always consider myself a part of this place despite my pale Irish skin. Your food is amazing, yes, but your appreciation for the little things in life extend far beyond any plate of spaghetti or gelato cone. To anyone who may have stumbled upon this blog or has read this far and is considering traveling for the first time themselves, I offer this simple piece of advice: do it. Learning to adapt and appreciate another culture is something that cannot be taught elsewhere. Especially if your perception of adventure is like mine (trying squid for the first time), find the motivation within yourself to try something new and push beyond your comfort zone. 

At this point I can't say what's in store for my next big adventure, but I am confident it will present even more challenges and excitement. From the historic streets of Florence, the trees of the Tuscan vineyards, the narrow canals of Venice, the cobblestone streets of Rome, the world's oldest university of Bologna, the jagged cliffs of Cinque Terre, the blue oasis of Capri and Sorrento, the summit of Mount Vesuvius to, finally, the wholesome Italian village of Tuscania, with great appreciation I say "Grazie e ciao Italia!" See you soon, America!

Megan

Wine & Fun Under the Capri Sun

We've settled into Tuscania quite nicely over the past few weeks and have enjoyed the simplicity of life that this small pocket of Italy provides. I am having a blast in my cooking class, learning how to make all kinds of delicious recipes and learning about the regional differences in Italian cuisine. I'm compiling all of our dishes into a "summer cookbook" (which I'll be sure to share pictures of at the end of the course!). Transportation out of Tuscania is difficult because it is such a small town, but we have traveled to some nearby places through our school. We took a trip to Bolsena Lake in the center of Italy on a beautiful sunny day and took a boat tour around the lake complete with a stop for swimming!

A few days later we took a day trip to Viterbo, the capital of the province of Viterbo, Lazio. Known as "the City of the Popes," the historic center of town is surrounded by still intact medieval walls built in the 11th and 12th centuries. We arrived just in time for the last day of the annual Ludika festival which celebrates Viterbo's medieval history with a giant festival and battle in the field in the evening.  

It is! It is!! It is!!!

For my cooking class we took a field trip to nearby Montefiascone to a cantina (wine cellar) for a wine tasting and lesson on this region's rich wine history. It is home to the popular wine Est! Est!! Est!!! sold all over Italy. Legend has it that a bishop was traveling from northern Italy to Rome for a meeting with the Pope but first sent his servant along to find him the best wine en route. He was instructed to write "est" ("it is") on the doors of anywhere where he approved of the wine. When he got to Montefiascone, he enthusiastically marked the cellar with three "ests" so the Bishop would not miss it. Allegedly the bishop never made it to Rome, instead staying in Montefiascone with the wine until his death. I guess you could say this wine is to die for!

Vesuvius Venture

This past weekend was our last big trip organized through my program, this time to southern Italy in the region of Campania. First stop was just east of Naples at European mainland's only active volcano, Mount Vesuvius. A national park encompasses this volcano whose last major eruption was in 1944 (is it just me, or does that not seem like too long ago?!). The most famous eruption occurred in 79 A.D. when the volcano shot deadly lava, gases, stones, and ashes over 20 miles into the air, killing an estimated 16,000 people and burying the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum. This explosion released gases at a rate a hundred thousand times the thermal energy released by the Hiroshima bombing. Completely unfathomable! It has erupted nearly 40 times since, including in 1906, which caused so much damage and financial burden on the region that the 1908 summer Olympics, originally scheduled for Rome, had to be relocated to London. 

To reach the base of the volcano climb we had to drive up the mountain on some of the most narrow, windy streets I've ever seen. Controlling a large coach bus up such a terrain comes with great praise, a kind that I can only liken to the flawlessness of the Mather Express drivers through the narrow, construction-filled streets of Cambridge. Well done, Lorenzo. Despite our ears popping from the change in altitude, the drive gave us incredible views of the Bay of Naples and the town. Unfortunately it was a bit foggy, making my pictures less clear than desired but nonetheless it was an amazing sight! The actual climb to the crater was rather difficult, as the paths are lined with loose gravel that feels like you're walking up a beach for 45 minutes. At last we reached the top and peeked inside the enormous, steaming crater!

You know you're pretty high up when the backdrop of your pictures is clouds!

Capri Cruising

After an awkwardly paced descent down Vesuvius we boarded the tumultuous bus once more for our transfer to the town of Sorrento, a small but popular tourist town that lends views of Naples, Mount Vesuvius, and the beautiful island of Capri. We spent the first night exploring the small town's shops and vendors, taking note of the famous limoncello, a lemon liqueur, produced in Sorrento. The next day was highly anticipated as we were going to the island of Capri! It's easy to see why 90% of its industry is tourism, as Capri is one of the most beautiful places in all of southern Italy. Its crystal waters, protruding cliffs and varying elevations combine for a sight too pretty for pictures to accurately capture! 

After a 45-minute "hydrofoil" boat transfer from Sorrento to Capri we hopped in a smaller boat for a tour of the island. Our guide, sporting a Cape Cod hat I might add, drove us to every angle of the island. Capri is known for its "grottos" or small caves on the edges of the island. Each is named for a color, for example the orange grotto where you can see orange coral beneath the surface! The most famous is the Blue Grotto in which sunlight reflects through the sea water, illuminating the cave to a crystal blue. Unfortunately entrance requires a separate trip on a small rowing boat where you must lay down in order to fit in the cave, which we did not have time for. I was disappointed, but I guess I'll just have to come back! Maybe Mariah Carey, Tom Cruise, or Keanu Reeves can let me stay in one of their houses here?

Following the boat tour we had some free time on the island, so my roommate and I took a bus to the other half of the island known as Anacapri for some shopping and the main attraction - the chair lift. I should preface this by again praising the driving skills (and total lack of fear of liability) of the bus driver, toting 30 eager tourists around every bend and curve of the mountainous island terrain. A couple years of crowded, hands-free MBTA rides have trained me for this! When we reached Anacapri, we headed over to the seggiovia (chair lift) up to Monte Solaro, the highest point in all of Capri, a casual 1,932 feet above sea level. The peaceful single-person ride offered breathtaking views of the town below. It felt as though we were in an airplane looking down at the houses shrinking in size with each climb in altitude. Views atop the mountain were just as spectacular, for a look in the horizon offered nothing but endless blue sky and ocean. 

The Great Neapolitan Pizza Odyssey 

Top priority for the evening in Sorrento was to have traditional Neapolitan pizza from the birthplace of modern pizza itself: Naples. Despite the influence of the Greeks and Romans, it was the Neapolitans who first embraced the use of the tomato, revolutionizing the now world-famous dish. In the mid-19th century, pizzerias were opened on the side streets of Naples and before long visitors began to investigate this newly popular food. When Queen Margherita visited in 1889 to try the famous pizza, a chef was summoned and in her honor created a pizza with mozzarella, tomatoes and basil to represent the colors of the Italian flag. The Queen approved, later earning the pizza the title of "Margherita". The Neapolitans take their pizza so seriously that the True Neapolitan Pizza Association has been established to safeguard the cooking of traditional pizzas. They require that dough must be made from only flour, yeast, salt and water and not worked by machine. The cooking process must take place directly on the floor of a brick or stone-lined wood-fired oven with a temperature exceeding 750 degrees. The pizza should take only 2 minutes to cook and have a soft, high crust border cooked to a golden brown. Talk about high standards! After careful observation, I'd say Pizzeria Aurora nailed it:

Beneath the Ash: Uncovering the Ruins of Pompeii

Last stop on our weekend travels was the ancient city of Pompeii, one of the most fascinating places yet. In the catastrophic 79 A.D. eruption of Mount Vesuvius, Pompeii and Herculaneum were completely obliterated, buried beneath 20 feet of ash and pumice. The story of Pompeii has been pieced together over time largely thanks to the letters written by Pliny the Younger to the historian Tacitus. Pliny details the demise of his uncle, Pliny the Elder, who perished while trying to save citizens along the coast. It is through Pliny the Younger's account of the aftermath of Vesuvius that we know many of the details of this horrific eruption. Scattered throughout the ruins of Pompeii are plaster molds of people in their final resting poses as they were asphyxiated by the burning gases of the eruption. The ash formed a cast around their bodies, and a hollow space remained after decomposition. Archeologists filled these hollow spaces with plaster, resulting in a collection of over 1,000 replicas of victims.

Pregnant Lady Plaster Cast 

I was also surprised to learn that they still haven't finished excavating the city of Pompeii! It's hard to believe how much more is still out there waiting to be uncovered. Despite the heat of a mid-July afternoon, as one of Italy's most popular tourist attractions, I was excited to check this ancient city off my list.

As I enter my 10th and final week here in Italy I am enjoying looking back at all the incredible things I have seen in such a short amount of time. While I am excited to get back to the luxury of free ice water and air conditioned buildings, I am soaking in the last bits of the wonderful country that is Italy. I'll be posting a collection of pictures of all our delicious creations in cooking class soon along with a final wrap up post about my time here, so if you're still following at this point (hi Mom) stay tuned!

Until then, arrivederci tutti!

Megan